November 2008

It wasn’t that many years ago that the Malbec grape, if known at all, was only mentioned as one of the five grapes used in Bordeaux’s Chateau blends (along with Cabernet, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc). Today that scenario has nearly disappeared, as the Malbec grape has taken center stage in the vineyards of Argentina.

Thought it is still an approved grape of Bordeaux, it is in the Southwest corner of France (Cahors) where the grape dominates. There, the grape (also called "Cot" or "Auxerrois") produces wine so dark and tannic that it takes years to develop. This is most likely the reason why, in that region, the Malbec is referred to as the "Black Wine."

But back to Argentina. It is said that the grape was introduced to Argentina in 1868 by Michel Pouget, a French agronomist. With more than 70,000 acres of plantings, Argentina leads the world in Malbec vineyards. Chile, with 15,000 acres, and France, with 12,000 acres, are second and third. So far, only small amounts of Malbec acreage can be found in Washington, California, Oregon and Australia.

If you have yet to experience an Argentinean Malbec wine, the time has come. Seldom dainty, the grape almost demands heat and dry weather – and plenty of sun – all of which occur in Argentina. The best Malbecs will come from older vines. These result in a wine that shows great intensity, complexity and deep flavors. The color is deep, the tannins mostly full-bodied, and the taste reflects many of the darker fruits and berries. It pairs nicely with not only meats and strong cheeses, but also shines with chocolate.

The Mendoza region of Argentina is where nearly 80% of Malbecs are grown. The region is some 7y00 miles west of Buenos Aires, at the eastern base of the Andes. According to a recent article in the "Wine Enthusiast" magazine, Malbecs from Argentina are still a relative bargain in the U.S. Though a weak dollar has pushed up the price of many European wines, that has not happened in Argentina. The reason? – The Argentinean peso’s value is pegged to the American dollar at roughly three pesos to one dollar. Hence, there is no loss of gain of value on either side." (I don’t totally understand that concept, but I’ll gladly accept the resulting "good value" Malbecs.)

Some of the classically scored wines can retail at more than $100 (U.S.); however, you can experience many very good Malbecs in the $10 to $25 range. Malbec’s top producers from Argentina include Acheval-Ferrer, Catena, Lurton, Norton, Pascual Toso, Septima, Trivento, Valentin Biachi, and Familia Schroeder.

I am happy to report that our expanded Argentinean wine section at Pasadena Liquor and Fine Wines includes selections from all of the above listed wineries. The next time you have a hankering for something other than a Cabernet or Merlot, stop by our Pasadena Wine Shop and give Malbec a try.

Pasadena Liquor and Fine Wines

1100 Pasadena Avenue South

South Pasadena, Florida 33707

727-347-9607